Neo Punta Esencia 2004, Ribera del Duero, Spain – HK$680/btl The 2004 Neo Punta Esencia is made only in the very best vintages (2004 certainly qualifies in Ribera del Duero). The wine receives the 200% new oak treatment (12 months in new oak with racking into another set of new oak for an additional 4 months) and is bottled unfiltered. The wine is nearly black in colour and has already soaked up much of the new oak. The nose is super-expressive and complex with pain grille, black currant, blackberry liqueur, and blueberry jam holding sway. Densely packed and stacked, with layer upon layer of ripe fruit, its tannins virtually concealed, this full-bodied, beautifully balanced wine is a near-monument and purchasers should give it the necessary time (1f0+ years) to strut its stuff. Bodegas Neo consists of a bunch of young guys having the time of their lives. They seem to be making wine everywhere (Rueda, Priorat, Bierzo, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero), as well as designing wine labels, recording music videos, and generally partying. But when it comes down to their top two wines, they are deadly serious. On my visit in May, 2010, I was shown verticals of Neo and Neo Punta Esencia. Neo is sourced from 50- to 60-year-old Tempranillo vines and typically aged in French oak. 98pt Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate