Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline 1978
US$3,737.77 "The 1978 Cote Rotie la Mouline possessed an otherworldly, full-bodied texture to go with a layered, rich and perfumed bouquet of forest floor, sweet blackcurrants, olive, underbrush and game. This puppy is at full maturity and then some (and I suspect has been there for some time), yet still offers an incredible, singular drinking experience that I wish every reader could experience. One of the reference point estates for top quality wines in the world today, the family run Guigal operation was created in 1946 by Etienne Guigal. Today, Etienne’s son, Marcel, and his son Philippe, are firmly in control here, and are without a doubt producing some of the most singular, sought after wines in the world. Due to the size of this tasting, I’ll keep my comments short, but the incredible quality coming from this operation is astounding, and a tasting here is always one of the highlights of any trip through the region. Furthermore, while a lot is said about the extended oak aging regime here, I don’t know anyone who tastes mature examples of these wines on a regular basis that still has any doubts about the genius going on here. In short, these single vineyard (and their blends as well) Cote Roties are some of the greatest wines money can buy. For this tasting (which, with the Guigals, is always a large one!), we focused on their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospice release, and then three of their Cote Roties, starting with the classic Brune et Blonde, then the Chateau d’Ampuis, and finishing with their single vineyard La Mouline. Looking first at their Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospices release, it comes all from the incredibly steep (and picturesque) vineyard perched just above the town of Tournon. The exposure here (which is critical for Saint...
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Gaja Sperss 1989
US$760.44 The 1989 Barolo Sperss is wonderfully complete and polished, as layers of seamless, ripe fruit emerge from its powerful frame with tons of class. The wine reveals stunning elegance and purity wrapped around a powerful core of Serralunga fruit that speaks volumes of the greatness of this terroir. The 1989 Sperss can be enjoyed today as the tannins are...
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Gaja Sori Tildin 2006 (3 liters)
US$1,359.78 "The 2006 Langhe Sori Tildin opens with a gorgeous, nuanced bouquet that leads to an equally expressive core of ripe, red fruits. This medium-bodied Sori Tildin is the most focussed and energetic of these wines. It offers exceptional length and a refined, polished close. As is often the case, the Sori Tildin is also the most delicate and feminine...
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Gaja Sori San Lorenzo 2006
US$341.55 The 2006 Langhe Sori San Lorenzo is the most virile of these 2006 Langhes. The wine reveals terrific depth and richness in its dark fruit, smoke, tar, licorice and menthol. The authoritative Sori San Lorenzo offers plenty of excitement and sheer pleasure in an extroverted style. The elegant finish is at once powerful and sublime. Baritone notes of tar,...
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Gaja Costa Russi 2005 (3 Liters)
US$1,482.22 The 2005 Costa Russi shimmers on the palate with extraordinary grace. The wine boasts wonderful depth and richness in its dark red fruit in a round, generous style that offers lovely balance to the tannins. Notes of tar, smoke and licorice develop in the glass, adding a touch of complexity and nuance that is sometimes missing in this bottling....
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Gaja Barbaresco 2010
US$166.27 "Smack from the start, the 2010 Barbaresco shows full-on Gajissimo personality with irresistible opulence and intensity, magically contrasted against remarkable smoothness and finesse. Everyone wants to know his secret. The wine delivers seductively rich concentration and integrated oak that is offset by a delicate portfolio of chiseled mineral, dried berry fruit, Spanish cedar, crushed herb, anisette and blue flower....
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Ducru Beaucaillou - St. Julien 2010
US$244.89 With loads of minerality, a terrific opaque purple color, and slightly more structure and tannin than either Poyferre or St.-Pierre (and that’s saying something), this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou...
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Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru 2008
US$113.42 They described 2008 as a "very cool and late vintage of terroir. The transparency is really remarkable and might be the best since 2001 in this regard. We waited to harvest and didn't begin picking until the 28th of September because we didn't believe that we had the necessary phenolic ripeness prior to that date. We picked slowly and...
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Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2009
US$127.60 Etienne de Montille describes the 2009 vintage as having produced "sexy and irresistible wines that should be hugely popular. I began picking on the 6th of September and the real trick was to preserve the freshness in the wines. Potential alcohols were in the 12.3 to 13.3% range and while the fruit was ultra-clean, there was still plenty of...
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Clerc Milon - Pauillac 2005
US$812.00 Clerc-Milon’s 2005 has moved ahead of its stablemate, d’Armailhac. A blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) and Merlot (40%), and the rest Cabernet Franc, it exhibits plenty of charcoal, roasted coffee, smoke, blackberry, and cassis notes along with a meaty-like character to its flavors and texture. Full-bodied with surprisingly high tannin as well as gorgeous depth and...
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Clerc Milon - Pauillac 2000
US$244.89 A beautiful wine and one of my favorites from this estate, this blend of nearly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot is aging impressively. Dense ruby/purple in color, with creme de cassis, charcoal, and sweet leathery and chocolatey notes intermixed with the classic Pauillac cedar and spice box, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy, with sweet tannin and...
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Cheval Blanc - St. Emilion 2000
US$1,018.22 Coming out of a relatively dormant state, this 2000 is a spectacular Cheval Blanc. Of recent vintages, I think only the 2009 can give it a run for its money. A blend of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc, the wine has a sweet nose of menthol, melted licorice, boysenberry, blueberry, and cassis. A broad wine with compelling purity,...
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Bruno Giacosa Barolo Vigna Croera 2004
US$166.27 "The 2004 Barolo Vigna Croera reveals pretty aromatics and notes of smoke, tar, roses, herbs and the small red fruits that are characteristic of the wines of La Morra. Made in a medium-bodied, delicate style it possesses a graceful, feminine personality and finessed tannins. Even though the wine continued to gain weight in the glass I noted that it...
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